All My Sons: The Talawa Production at the Royal Exchange

I have just managed to catch The Talawa Theatre Company's Production of Arthur Miller's "All My Sons", now nearing the end of a very successful run at Manchester's Royal Exchange. Performed by an all Black cast, with the wonderful Don Warrington playing the lead role of Joe Keller,it was an engaging and powerful performance from start to finish.

The Talawa Theatre Company, founded as long ago as 1986 to provide creative opportunities for Black performers and directors, is now Britain's primary all Black theatre company. There is no special ethnic reason for the production of "All My Sons" by an all Black Company,its themes are universal: individual responsibility, conscience, and the relations of individuals and families to society in the large. Set in the latter part of the second world war, the play portrays the disintegration of a family amidst the sacrifice the profiteering and the criminality which coexist in modern war.

As always the Royal Exchange's Theatre programme is thought provoking, and this one carries a piece written by Arthur Miller in 1958 in which he acknowledged his debt to Ibsen,

If his plays, and his method, do nothing else they reveal the evolutionary quality of life. One is constantly aware in watching his plays, of process, change, development. .. dramatic characters and the drama itself, can never hope to attain a maximum degree of consciousness unless they contain a viable unveiling of the contrast between past and present, and an awareness of the process by which the present has become what it is.

Elsewhere in the programme Don Warrington and Director Michael Buffong explore the play's relevance to the the present, to the collapse of "turbo capitalism" and the need to find a way of living together that is not based on pure greed. "All My Sons' was written at a time when free market economics and individualism were widely considered to be an extreme ideology responsible for the pre-war economic breakdown which led to mass unemployment, fascism and to war. It was a time when many shared a belief that it was possible, out of the ruins of war, to create a better, more socially responsible world. I don't detect such optimism now, simply a cynicism about the politicians' demonstrably absurd claims that "we are all in it together," but that perhaps makes Miller's play even more relevant.

Anyway I hope this production is staged elsewhere, it deserves to be seen by a wider audience. I also rather selfishly hope that the Talawa soon return to the Royal Exchange.

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Manchester: Don't Rain on My Parade

"Wish you were here" Manchester Parade 2013

June 2nd was the occasion for the Manchester Parade, the 4th such event, and the sun shone again, which it is not supposed to do in Manchester. You used to be able to buy a tee shirt from the tourist office proclaiming "ON THE SEVENTH DAY GOD MADE MANchester" so perhaps God is a Mancunian.

The parade began on a solemn note with a commemoration of drummer Lee Rigby, four portraits followed by a mass of military drummers.

Manchester remembers drummer Lee Rigby - one of its own

Then came a celebration of modern Manchester, in all its colour and diversity.

Having long dispatched its former glory as the world's first industrial city to the museum, modern Manchester would be unrecognizable to De Tocqueville, Marx or Engels, keen observers of the miseries of Manchester in its heyday. Unrecognizable too to more recent visitors, Turing and Sebald, who for a time made decaying, bomb damaged Manchester their home, but never felt at home here.

Towards the end of the parade a float by the Home Ed Arts group struck a different, perhaps more authentic Mancunian note, a post apocalyptic vision of globally warmed Manchester by the sea in a thousand years: a giant hermit crab in a spent nuclear shell case is paraded along the promenade surrounded by a Peirrot troupe, a kind of fourth millenium freak show to shock an unshockable audience.

Giant Crab bathed in sunshine in front of Manchester's Town Hall

Pierrot troupe parading the Giant Crab along "Deansgate Promenade"

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Images of North Korea

Man fishing in North Korea, 2012

Another lunch with the globe trotting Grimshaws. I wonder how many people can have visited both Pitcairn and North Korea, let alone in the space of less than one year? That honour belongs to our friends the Grimshaws, who have posted the photos they took of their recent trip on Flickr.

I particularly liked the image of the man fishing. A superb photo taken by a gifted but very modest photographer, capturing a slice of life in North Korea which few are able to see.

Another that caught my eye was the photo of the Pyongyang Metro, modern, clean and uncrowded, claimed to be the deepest in the world, and designed to provide shelter from a nuclear attack that the Korean authorities apparently regard as inevitable.

Pyongyang Metro

The image of people cycling to work in front of nondescript apartments chimes better with western views of this inscrutable country, albeit with a touch of Lowry about it.

Hamhung, DPRK, Going to Work

Finally I have added a view of which the authorities would approve, a huge monument to the Korean Workers Party, consisting of three 50 metre towers depicting the hammer and sickle, and in the middle a rather phallic writing brush.

Pyongyang, Party Foundation Monument, 1995

We were fascinated to hear about their travels to the Demilitarised Zone, the empty roads and their two visits to the amazing Arirang Mass Games. Surprising was the revelation that visitors may spend a short time staying in the homes of ordinary families, a privilege not extended to those American citizens who find their way to North Korea.

I was also surprised to hear that the UK has an embassy in Pyongyang. I imagine that it is not a highly sought after posting!

Perhaps most surprising of all was the account of the young Norwegian in the Grimshaws' party, fascinated by North Korea and making his third trip. One wonders how far he has managed to delve below the surface of this most impenetrable of countries. Unlike the young Norwegian the Grimshaws do not intend to make a return visit, but they had no regrets about going. I wonder where they will go next?

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Munch without The Scream

Edvard Munch,The Yellow Log 1911-1912

The Scream by Edvard Munch (1863-1944) is one of the best known images in art. Munch often repeated his works and painted four versions of The Scream between 1893 and 1910. One version sold in May this year for 119.9 million dollars, a record for an open auction.

There is though far more to Munch than this iconic late nineteenth century painting. Arguably it is not his best work, and it is certainly not representative of his total artistic endeavour, which continued until his death in Nazi occupied Norway in 1944.

For some reason I have never visited the Munch Museum in Oslo, and having read a review by Laura Cummings in the Observer on 1st July, I was determined to visit the exhibition Edvard Munch: The Modern Eye at the Tate Modern, now nearing its end.

The exhibition focuses on Munch's twentieth century development, and on the impact which photography and cinema had on him. I was particularly attracted by the Yellow Log, which creates an almost kinetic effect. A similar effect is apparent in The Workers Returning Home, which reflected his engagement with the trends of the early

Edvard Munch,Workers Returning Home 1913-15

twentieth century,and his belief that the time of the workers had come. The middle class pedestrians are sidelined, mere observers of history.

The painting which has probably attracted the most attention was the last

Edvard Munch: Self-Portrait: Between the Clock and the Bed 1940–3

of a number of self portraits, showing the subject standing between a grandfather clock,its face obscured, and the bed, on which presumably he expects to die, surrounded by some of his life's work. The painting was completed in 1942 or 1943. Munch died in January 1944, refusing to the end any association with the collaborationist Quisling regime in Norway which tried to convey a different impression at his funeral.

I found this a fascinating exhibition, and hope before too long to visit the Munch Museum in Oslo, to learn more about him, and yes, to look at The Scream.

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Turing's Manchester

The purpose built, post war utilitarian brick building in which Turing worked

This year marks the centenary of the birth of Alan Turing, whose theoretical work before the war provided much of the conceptual framework for computation and the yet unheard of discipline of computer science. Perhaps the most distinguished achievement of a short but glittering career was his secret war time work on cryptography at Bletchley Park, which saved countless lives in the battle of the Atlantic and some believe considerably shortened the war.

After the war he worked at the National Physical Laboratory where he produced a design for what he conceived of as an artificial "brain". Frustrated by bureaucratic politics in which he never excelled, Turing abandoned this work and in 1948 accepted a readership at the Victoria University in Manchester, where Professor Williams and his team of electrical engineers had already constructed the world's first stored program electronic computer, the Manchester Baby.

Plaque recently unveiled by Gary Kasparov, former world chess champion, who regards Turing as the founder of computer chess

In Manchester, he worked with the engineers on the development of the new Manchester Mark 1 computer, although his only contribution to the hardware design was a random number generator on whose inclusion he insisted. Unusually for a theoretical Mathematician, a gentlemanly profession, Turing had always been willing to get his hands dirty, and had his own laboratory at his semi-detached house in a leafy road on the outskirts of Wilmslow, where he often preferred to work rather than in the smokey industrial city of Manchester which still very much bore the scars of war time bombing, and must have seemed very unappealing after previous academic posts at Cambridge and Princeton. In March 1949 he wrote to a friend,

I am getting used to this part of the world but still find Manchester rather mucky. I avoid going there more than I can avoid. (1)

Turing's house in Wlmslow (on left), now marked by a blue plaque

The Victoria University, described not totally accurately by Turing's biographer as "the technical University of the North, producing doctors and engineers, rather than abstract ideas", was certainly a step down socially from Cambridge. (2) It was precisely that of course which enabled it to produce the world's first stored program computer, which was patently beyond the capabilities of the gentlemanly world from which Turing had sprung.

Nevertheless, as well as the engineers interested only in the practicalities of developing their machine, in Manchester Turing found a number of academics with whom he was able to discuss his ideas on artificial intelligence, among them the Hungarian born polymath Michael Polanyi (1891-1976),the Professor of Chemistry.

Polyani, a critic of positivism and British empiricism, whose writings on the limitations of scientific knowledge were to influence Thomas Kuhn, firmly opposed Turing's view of the human mind as a discrete state machine. For Polanyi the human mind was unspecificable, certainly by human beings. For Turing the fact that it was not yet specified did not mean that it should be considered as unspecifiable. Despite their profound intellectual disagreement the two remained friends.

It is an irony that Turing is probably at least as well known for the circumstances surrounding his death as for his scientific achievements. Eschewing contact with the small homosexual community centred on the University, the Manchester Guardian and the BBC, Turing had little social life in Manchester, but made regular visits to Cambridge and his friends in the south of England. (3)

The once dark arch under the railway, Oxford Road Station

In December 1951 though he made a foray into the then rather sleazy area of Oxford Road close to the arches under the railway line, where, pretending to look at the posters outside the Regal Cinema, he made contact with a young working class man, Arnold Murray.

The former Regal Cinema, now the home of the Northern Ballet

Entrance to the former Regal Cinema, outside which Turing met Arnold Murray

Their relationship, across the class divide, was to lead to Turing's conviction in 1952 for gross indecency and, as an alternative to prison negotiated by his legal representative, hormonal treatment to reduce his libido.

The arch covered in graphiti, which the City Council threatens to remove.

Turing kept his job, continued his scientific work, and particularly after his probationary period continued his life much as before, but he lost his Government security clearance and was clearly put under scrutiny by the security services. In mid May 1954 Turing went with friends to Blackpool and, as he had done many years before in Hertfordshire, went in to consult a gypsy fortune teller. After half an hour he emerged, white as a sheet, would not discuss what she had said and did not speak for the duration of the bus journey back to Manchester. In June 1954 he was found dead in his bed at home, beside him a partially eaten apple that may have been contaminated by cyanide.

His mother refused to believe it was suicide, arguing that it was an accident, the result of typical carelessness in his laboratory. A recent paper by Professor Copeland lends some support to this view: the coroner's verdict was based on insufficient evidence; it could have been an accident or even murder. Certainly the apple was never tested for traces of cyanide, and Turing's cheerfulness and plans for the coming days certainly indicate that if it was suicide it was not premeditated. One troubling detail is the fact that his shoes were placed outside his bedroom door as if waiting cleaning, an Oxbridge custom which according to his housekeeper Turing had never previously observed.

The exact circumstances of Turing's death may always remain unclear. It should not be stated that he committed suicide—because we simply do not know. Perhaps we should just shrug our shoulders, agree that the jury is out, and focus on Turing's life and extraordinary work.(4)

Whatever the true cause of his death, it does not excuse the appalling treatment which Turing received at the hands of the authorities, for which, in 2009, after a petition, the British Government formally apologised.

The Turing Centenary Exhibition: Manchester Museum

To celebrate Turing's centenary Manchester University has recently hosted a conference, and has mounted an exhibition at the Manchester Museum.

Board advertising the Exhibition

Board in the Turing Exhibition

Honesty compels me to say that the exhibition, which primarily focuses on the chemical basis of morphogenesis, on which Turing was engaged at the time of his death, is more than a little disappointing. Other than a single machine showing very slow mysterious graphics presumably illustrating Turing's work on morphogenesis followed by a videoed interview with an aged academic who was Turing's postgraduate student at the time of his death and describes the difficulties of using the what now seems archaic Mark I computer, no use whatsoever is made of modern technology. The entries in the visitors' book sadly and rather dramatically indicate that it has failed to stimulate the school children who have been brought to see it. Manchester could and should have done better.

Postscript: The Apple Logo

Apparently Stephen Fry once asked the late Steve Jobs if it were true that the Apple logo was in memory of the death of Alan Turing. Jobs replied, It isn't true, but God we wish it were!

It is perhaps no bad thing to remember Turing whenever we see the logo.

----------------------------------------------------

1. Andrew Hodges, Alan Turing: The Enigma,(Vintage Books 1992),p.395
2. Hodges p. 394
3. Hodges p. 396
4. TURING SUICIDE VERDICT IN DOUBT, Jack Copeland, 23 June 2012

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Schooldays, the Gongman and the Search for Gold

J. Arthur Rank's Gongman
Blancmange, sago and other stomach turning puddings, shirts with starched detachable collars, chapel every day, rugby, hockey and running (football was not a suitable game for gentlemen) nearly every afternoon, lessons on Saturday mornings as well as early evenings on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, cadets on Wednesday afternoons, polishing boots, blancoing belts, learning to use First World War rifles and field telephones("if it doesn't work urinate over its earth" we were told), "prep" in classrooms every weekday night after dinner, beatings administered by prefects, early lights out, sleeping under heavy army great coats in freezing dormitories, and all too soon awakened by a bell summoning us to another day of unmitigated pleasure.

Such are my memories of boarding school half a century ago.

Few of us ever questioned the efficacy of such an adolescence. On such foundations were English gentlemen made and the British Empire built.

In such a regime there was no place for watching television, but we were allowed to play pop music, and every other Saturday night in the autumn and spring terms we excitedly gathered in the hall to watch a film.

More than what we actually watched, my main memory is of the reaction of the audience whenever a J. Arthur Rank film was shown, which seems to me to have been every time, although memory may be playing tricks on me. On such occasions the appearance of the Gongman would always be greeted with raucous calling out of the name of one of our fellow pupils, accompanied by much laughter. I never understood why this particular boy was singled out in this way, and still don't, but I fear that that may not have prevented me from joining in. I did not know the boy at all well, and had no idea how he felt about it, not that feelings were things that any of us would ever have admitted that we had.

Some time after I left I was told that the boy in question had gone to London University to study Mining Engineering, to the apparent amusement of my informant, who clearly assumed that even I realised that that was not a suitable career for a gentleman.

On leaving University the young Mining Engineer moved to Australia, where, after a time, he discovered gold, lots of it.

He is now among the richest men in Australia. I think he has had the last laugh.

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Pitcairn: Uklun tull un Dem tull



"Burning the Bounty", Pitcairn Islanders with quad bikes, January 20th 2012

This week my wife and I had lunch with fellow blogger John Grimshaw, an inveterate traveller to remote places who lives not far from me and whom I would never have met but for the internet. Earlier in the year he had sent me an email from Pitcairn, and we were eager to hear about the Island and to look at the excellent photographs,now on Flickr, taken by him and his wife Pauline.

He has also kindly given me permission to reproduce a few of them on here.


Pitcairn Islanders setting off on a fishing trip in a Longboat

Between February 1983 and August 1992 The Royal New Zealand Air Force made several 6,600 mile round-trip flights to Pitcairn to airdrop mail and cargo.

Dilapidated Bulldozer, parachuted on Pitcairn by the Royal New Zealand Air Force almost 30 years ago


The bulldozer was dropped from a C130 Hercules on 18th May 1983.

The island generates some of its income by selling commemorative stamps. A number were issued to commemorate the New Zealand Air Force flights. The cover below is from the last airdrop which took place in 1992 .



In my search for information about Pitcairn I came across the nearest thing to a newspaper that an island of 40-50 inhabitants can support, The Pitcairn News, bearing the banner UCKLUN TULL UN DEM TULL.

On reading further I was surprised to find that Pitkern, the language shared with Norfolk Island where the Pitcairn islanders moved for a time in the nineteenth century and where the majority remained is, despite the geographical location of both islands, considered an Atlantic rather than a Pacific Creole. (1)

I was fascinated to read the following account in Pitkern of the celebrations of Bounty Day in Wellingon, New Zealand in January 2009.
Wen we wake up Sunday morning rainen like a brute. We sort des day gwen be es hairy putty and gwen lucky ef eny bordy tun up. Den wen mussa time fer go har sun come out un shine like a goodun but mite be putt some sulluns orf cos nor get mussa as much ucklun es hem tadda time. But still gut plenty ucklun compared to Pitcairn. Fer me, mussa es sad un fer see how much ucklun out ya tekken part knowen orn Pitcairn we car play da kinds of games we bin el lorng ago, cos we nor gut nuff folks levven home now. But es goodun ucklun out ya involven dems sulluns un dems sulluns sulluns in our celebration un culture.

So remote and with such a small population, Pitcairn is obviously a very vulnerable community keen to improve its image and to promote itself: in August 2012 a number of Pitcairners will be attending the 2nd International Bounty-Pitcairn Conference at Pacific Union College in the Napa Valley, California.

Pitcairn honey, "with all the natural sweetness of tropical fruits and flowers", has reputedly become a favourite of the Queen and the Prince of Wales. So if I get an invitation to the Palace I will know what to take along as a gift!

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. On 3 May 1856, the whole Pitcairn community then nearly 200 people set sail for Norfolk Island, almost 4000 miles away. The journey took 5 weeks. Eighteen months later 17 returned to Pitcairn, followed five years later by another 27. The language spoken on Norfolk island is usually referred to as "Norfuk".








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